Spring in Seville means two things, Semana Santa (Holy Week in English) and our similarly extravagant Feria de Abril, or the April Fair celebration.Ā While the fair is all about traditional dance, delicious food, and ice-cold sherry, Semana Santa takes a very different tone.
Semana Santa in Seville is one of our most iconic celebrations, and the week leading up to Easter is a fascinating time to be in the city.Ā
Huge statues representing various images from the Passion of Jesus Christ take to the streets in processions that last up to 12 hours. Schools shut down, certain workplaces close and the whole city bands together in appreciation of the spectacle. But, what makes Seville during Easter so special? Read on to find out.
What is Semana Santa?
Semana Santa is a celebration that locals spend all year preparing for. For one week, processions take over the streets as a tribute to the Passion of Jesus Christ. It is celebrated all over Spain and many people say it dates as far back as the 12th century. The Seville celebration has existed since at least the 16th century but is believed to have existed even earlier.
When is Semana Santa in Seville?
Just like the rest of the country, Holy Week in Seville takes place the week leading up to Easter, from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday. As one of the cityās most important holidays, children are on vacation from school and many bars and restaurants close so everyone can take part in the festivities.
Insiderās Tip: If youāre planning to visit, check out our tips for spending Semana Santa in Seville.
How is Holy Week in Seville celebrated?
There are parts of the Semana Santa tradition that are common across the whole country. However, certain cities have their own unique way to celebrate Holy Week. In Seville, the enormous statues (pasos) originally had an educational function and put an image to the passages of The Bible. The people who walk the processions with the float are performing an act of penance, repenting their sins. These days, itās considered an honor to be a part of the processions. Keep reading for an explanation ofĀ the most important parts of Sevilleās Semana Santa celebration.
Hermandad
Each of the 115+ churches in Seville has a brotherhood (hermandad)Ā associated with it. These locals are in charge of the social calendar of the church, especially the organization of the major Holy Week procession. Being part of a brotherhood isnāt a profession, just a sign of the extreme dedication of the locals to the tradition itself.
El Paso
The enormous pasosĀ (floats that make up the procession)Ā make a pilgrimage through the city. Each pasoĀ is an artistic representation of some part of the story of The Passion. Leaving their church, these statues, some of which are over 300 years old, wander through the narrow streets to the Seville Cathedral. Having passed through the cathedral itself, they then turn for home. This results in certain processions lasting upwards of 12 hours. Whatās even more incredible is that the floats are actually carried by devoted locals!
Costaleros
Costaleros,Ā so named because of the white protective garment (el costal)Ā they wear on their heads, take the weight of the float and carry it through the city. These locals are members of the churchās brotherhood (hermandad). There are between 20 to 40Ā costalerosĀ per float and they practice all year round, even in the extreme heat of August. Believe it or not, each year a special section of the hospital opens up to treat costaleroĀ injuries. Understandable given the floats can weigh up to a ton! While some processions are very long,Ā costalerosĀ will switch out every hour or two to take a bit of a break.
Nazarenos
Other participants in the processions include theĀ nazarenos, wearing perhaps the most controversial dress of the celebration. The robe worn by these penitents doesnāt draw much attention. The same can not be said for the conical hoodĀ (capirote) which bears a striking resemblance to the dress worn by the K.K.K. Rest assured, no connection exists between the two traditions.
The unique dress was born from a desire to repent sins without revealing your identity, as the hood leaves only the wearerās eyes on display. There can be up to a whopping 3,000Ā nazarenosĀ participating in some of the bigger processions. Given their mysterious look, manyĀ nazarenosĀ will carry bags of sweets and give them to kids as they go by so they know theyāre friendly.
La Mantilla
Women wear this intricate headpiece towards the end of the Semana Santa celebrations. These beautifully woven lace veils are exceptionally detailed. Women often seek professional help to fit them in place, as you have to weave your hair around the comb to keep it in placeānot easy.
La Saeta
La SaetaĀ is a traditional religious song you will hear at a certain point during the procession. This emotive, acapella performance is a highlight of Semana Santa in Seville for many locals. To sing theĀ saetaĀ is an honor, and only the best local performers get the sought-after opportunity. However, to witness it should be appreciated just as much. Hearing the angst of the performer in the presence of theĀ pasoĀ as the entire crowd stands in complete silence is spectacular.
La MadrugĆ”
The most significant night of the Semana Santa tradition is Holy Thursday leading into Good Friday.Ā MadrugĆ”Ā comes from the Spanish word madrugadaĀ meaning early morning. Appropriate given processions run all night long through to the next day. One of the most important processions during this night is the Macarena, which also happens to be one of the biggest and most-watched of the whole celebration.
This blog post was originally posted on March 13, 2023.
Have limited time in the city? Experience Sevilleās most iconic sights, enjoy VIP access to the Alcazar, and get swept away by the beauty and culture of the city on our Best of Seville Walking Tour: Exclusive Early Alcazar Access, Cathedral & Jewish Quarter.
can you please advise whether you csan help m get a ticket for a grandstand on either april 14 or 15. thank you.
Hi, Des. Unfortunately, I believe all seats have been sold out for this year’s celebration, they tend to sell out a few months in advance. Hopefully, you can still get to see some processions from other points in the city. Standing by the river and watching the processions come from Triana over the bridge is a special sight – Jaimie
This is a very informative post. I’m a huge fan of Semana Santa and actually participate in it as well. I’m a guiri too and there aren’t many of us in the processions.
Thanks for the informative article.
Glad you enjoyed it! Semana Santa is a wonderful tradition in Spain, isn’t it?
which is the best date in 2019 to join the Semana Santa Walking Tour?
Hi Raul! You can see the dates and book here: https://devoursevillefoodtours.com/tours/tour/semana-santa-walking-tour/
Thursday is the day with the most processions, but if you’re going to be in town for the week, you might want to do it on Monday so that you can get all the insider tips for the rest of the week. The experience will be similar, no matter which day you do it. Book soon though because tickets are already selling out!
Jamie, thank you for your detailed explanation of Semana Santa. We have been watching the Palm Sunday procession all day in Seville and now understand what it all means, especially the traditional garments worn.
Itās been an amazing experience.
Thanks again.
Kate from Australia
So happy to hear it, Kateāit is quite beautiful to see, especially when you understand it. Hope you’re enjoying Seville!
Hi Jamie,
We will be staying in Seville during Semana Santa, April 4-9th, 2020. We would love to join one of your Semana Santa tours. Will you be offering that tour next year? If so, we want to book it ASAP.
Thanks so much!
Mercedes
Hi Mercedes! We’re working out the details of next year’s Semana Santa tour. We’ve passed your message along to our customer service team, so they’ll be in touch with you shortly to help with booking. See you next year in Seville!
Hello,
Is it possible to buy seated tickets to the Semana Santa procession through you? I am bringing my elderly mother from Australia who won’t be able to stand that long. We’d like tickets for the Thursday to Friday. Thank you.
Hi Christine,
We’re unable to sell seats to Semana Santa processions, as this is regulated by the religious brotherhood organization in Seville. You can request seats via their website: http://gestionabonos.hermandades-de-sevilla.org/configuracion/gestionConfiguracion.do?tipo=2
We hope this helpsāenjoy Holy Week!