{"id":1706,"date":"2018-12-05T11:00:55","date_gmt":"2018-12-05T11:00:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/devourlisbonfoodtours.com\/?p=1706"},"modified":"2022-10-25T16:02:28","modified_gmt":"2022-10-25T16:02:28","slug":"graca-lisbon-neighborhood","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/dev.devourtours.com\/blog\/graca-lisbon-neighborhood\/","title":{"rendered":"A Love Letter to Lisbon: Gra\u00e7a Neighborhood"},"content":{"rendered":"\r\n

This post is part of our Love Letter<\/a> series: first-person accounts of what we love about Lisbon.<\/em><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\r\n
\"Lisbon's<\/figure>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Photo Credit: cityodes<\/a>, Text Overlay:\u00a0Devour Lisbon Food Tours<\/a><\/em><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Coming from the seaside town of Cascais, Lisbon felt like a foreign land at times.<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

I never even heard of Gra\u00e7a before I moved here and it would have probably taken me a lot longer to discover it, have I not met my Italian housemate Elisa.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

House-hunting in Lisbon wasn\u2019t always as hard as it is today. I only had to meet one person and the next thing I know I\u2019m standing on a new terrace, overlooking the Tagus river and holding the keys for my first apartment.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\r\n
\"The\r\n
The view of my current apartment in Gra\u00e7a, overlooking the pantheon where many Portuguese personalities like the fado<\/em> singer Am\u00e1lia are buried. Photo credit: cityodes<\/a><\/figcaption>\r\n<\/figure>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

I still remember the first time I went out to explore my neighborhood. Everything was new and unfamiliar. A lot has changed in the three years I\u2019ve lived here.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

That small brewery I found in a garage once, now owns the first craft beer kiosk in Lisbon<\/a> and a bar not too far away. Its name is Oitava Colina<\/em><\/a>, the eight hill, and if you\u2019ve lived in Gra\u00e7a, you would know why.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Lisbon is not like Rome and San Francisco, famous for its seven hills. We have eight hills in Lisbon, and of course, I ended up in the highest of them all.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Living in Gra\u00e7a does have its perks, like the miradouros<\/em> (viewpoints). We have not one, but two of the best viewpoints in Lisbon<\/a>.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

There is Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen<\/em>, which most people know as Miradouro da Gra\u00e7a<\/em> and further up there\u2019s Miradouro da Senhora do Monte<\/em>.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\r\n
\"Looking\r\n
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte<\/em> is one of the two viewpoints located in Gra\u00e7a.
Most people don’t even bother coming this far… Photo credit:
cityodes<\/a><\/figcaption>\r\n<\/figure>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

You can see how Gra\u00e7a has become popular, by the number of people hanging around the viewpoints. When I first came to Gra\u00e7a, there was barely anyone sitting by the Miradouro da Gra\u00e7a<\/em>, let along Senhora do Monte<\/em>.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Most tourists were content with the viewpoints in Alfama<\/a>, and not many would venture this far. Somehow the secret got out, and now it\u2019s nearly impossible to enjoy a sunset without being surrounded by tourists.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

But that\u2019s okay, Gra\u00e7a hasn\u2019t lost its charm just yet. Yes, there are more bars and restaurants around, but that only makes it more desirable to live here.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

In the past, Gra\u00e7a was the home of noble palaces, like Vila Sousa and religious sites such as Convento da Gra\u00e7a, which still stands today.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

After the 1755 earthquake, things changed. Most of the city got destroyed, and many workers fled to Gra\u00e7a to live since it was still close enough to the center, and the land was cheap.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

And then in the 20th century, came the railway in Santa Apol\u00f3nia which revolutionize the whole neighborhood. Suddenly, this was the home of the working class.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Villas were built to house the workers and workshops emerged everywhere. Like most communities, Gra\u00e7a needed entertainment, and so the Royal Cine<\/em> was born, a cinema for the locals.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\r\n
\r\n
The Royal Cine<\/em> in 1977. Today the building houses the Pingo Doce supermarket in Gra\u00e7a, but you can still see the star on top. Photo credit: Lisboa de Antigamente<\/a><\/figcaption>\r\n<\/figure>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Today it\u2019s hard to imagine that the first sound film screened in Lisbon had its debut here. How could you, when all that stands there now is a general supermarket?<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Luckily the old fa\u00e7ade remains as a memory of the building\u2019s former glory. If you happen to take the tram 28<\/a> all the way to Gra\u00e7a, you might catch a glimpse of it!<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Walking through these villas now is like finding a neighborhood within a neighborhood. My favorite villas in Gra\u00e7a are Estrela d\u2019Ouro and Vila Berta.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

The first one translates as \u201cGolden Star\u201d which is a recurrent motif here. You can find it on the cobblestones, shaped in the wrought-iron balconies, and even in the tiled fa\u00e7ades.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Vila Berta, on the other hand, is much smaller, and the only time it gets busy is in June with Lisbon\u2019s festivities.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\r\n
\"Vila\r\n
Vila Berta fully decorated for Santos Populares<\/em>, Lisbon’s summer festivities. Photo credit: cityodes<\/a><\/figcaption>\r\n<\/figure>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Like any other Lisbon neighborhood in June, Gra\u00e7a dresses up for the occasion with colorful bunting, loud pimba<\/em><\/a> music, and food stalls selling grilled sardines.<\/a><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

It\u2019s the best and the worst time to be in Gra\u00e7a. The best, because there\u2019s a party atmosphere in the air, and the worst because lots of people come here, and the streets are so packed you can barely move!<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

For the rest of the year, Gra\u00e7a is pretty quiet. You can still spot locals eating at O Sat\u00e9lite<\/a>, walking their dogs at the fairly new Jardim da Cerca da Gra\u00e7a, and picking up their kids from school.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

\r\n
\"The\r\n
The Jardim da Cerca da Gra\u00e7a was inaugurated in 2015, and it’s one of the only green spaces in Gra\u00e7a. There’s a kiosk inside the park where you can buy drinks. Most people just grab a bottle from the shop and drink on the grass.
Photo credit:
cityodes<\/a><\/figcaption>\r\n<\/figure>\r\n<\/div>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

But as the years go by, more foreigners have made it up the hill, and Gra\u00e7a has become their home too. That\u2019s why there\u2019s now a creative co-working space like Heden<\/a>, a breakfast spot<\/a> like Maria Lim\u00e3o<\/a>, and a series of cool bars like Damas<\/a>, M\u00e1 L\u00edngua<\/a>, and the Taproom Oitava Colina<\/a>.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

As I prepare to leave for a new adventure in a foreign land, I wonder what else will change when I\u2019m gone.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

This post is part of our Love Letter series: first-person accounts of what we love about Lisbon. Photo Credit: cityodes, Text Overlay:\u00a0Devour Lisbon Food Tours Coming from the seaside town of Cascais, Lisbon felt like a foreign land at times. I never even heard of Gra\u00e7a before I moved here and it would have probably […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":85,"featured_media":1710,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_oasis_is_in_workflow":0,"_oasis_original":0,"_oasis_task_priority":"","inline_featured_image":false},"categories":[1723,1755],"tags":[1745,1790,9,1768,281],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nDevour Tours<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/dev.devourtours.com\/blog\/graca-lisbon-neighborhood\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A Love Letter to Gra\u00e7a: From Craft Beer to The Best Views in Lisbon\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Atop Lisbon's eighth hill is the Gra\u00e7a neighborhood. 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